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1.  Inspection responsibility
Laminate flooring is produced in precise working steps in one of the most modern production sites. Half-finished as well as finished products will be constantly and strictly controlled. Despite our strict quality controls, damages on single panels are not impossible, i.e. transportation damages. Always check the panels before and during the installation. Attention! - Laminate flooring is not suitable for installations in wet rooms such as bathrooms, saunas or in similar rooms.
2.  Sub floors requirements
All sub floors must be prepared for installation in accordance with normal sub floor preparation procedures and to accepted tolerances within the flooring industry.

Before installing Laminate flooring there are the following points to consider:
Moisture test
The test will be done with CM-device and should not exceed the following moisture level:
        • for cement based concrete 2%CM
        • for anhydrite concrete 0.5%CM
In North America, the maximum allowed moisture level for concrete sub floors should not exceed 5 lb. / 1000 ft² / 24 hours measured with the Calcium Chloride Test Method according to ASTM F1869-98.
Evenness test
Evenness requirements are based on industrial typical standards.
Maximum tolerance of 3 mm per one meter (1/8” per three feet).
Load capacity
The sub floor has to be a closed and self supporting surface.
Cleanness test
The sub floor has to be in a clean and vacuumed condition.
Test of the climate condition in the room where the laminate flooring will be installed
The following conditions should be fulfilled before, during and after the installation:
        • a room temperature of minimum 18°C (64°F)
        • a floor surface temperature of minimum 15°C (59°F)
        • a relative humidity between 40% and 70%
3.  Sub floors
Laminate flooring installed as a floating flooring configuration can be installed on all sub floors which meet the above described requirements. Following find some examples:
    • all types of concrete sub floors, including hot water radiant sub floor systems
    • particle board sub floor constructions
    • fiberboard sub floor constructions
    • existing flooring surfaces like as PVC, linoleum, natural stone slab, ceramic tiles

Not suitable sub floors are:
textile surfaces = carpets
Limited suitable sub floors are:
electrical radiant sub floor heating systems (controlled through the surface temperature)

Explanation and limitation for the use of electrical radiant sub floor heating system:
Basically, an electrical radiant sub floor heating systems is an approved sub floor type only if the heating element is installed within the concrete or other sub floors and not installed as a foil heating element on top of the concrete or other sub floors.
Attention – the surface temperature may never exceed 28°C (83°F)!

Electrical radiant sub floor heating systems installed as a foil heating element may be used only if it can be insured through the manufacturer of the heating element that the surface temperature never exceeds 28°C (83°F).
Standard electrical foil heating systems generate at extreme temperature variations surface temperatures of way more then 28°C (83°F). Based on this reason, they are not suitable as a sub floor construction.

Please note the following rules for the different sub floor types:
Concrete sub floors
If Laminate flooring system is installed over a concrete sub floor, you may have to consider that possible rest moisture in the sub floor will migrate to the surface of the sub floor. Based on the afore mentioned reason it is always necessary to install a 0,2 (8 mil) polyethylene film as a moisture barrier over concrete sub floors, except for mastic asphalt. The lanes need to overlap by at least 20 cm (8”).
Concrete with hot water radiant heating systems
To ensure that radiant heating systems will work properly for many years to come, it is essential to plan and coordinate the different elements of the flooring construction (concrete – radiant heating system – laminate flooring).
All existing floor surfaces need to be removed prior to installing the new laminate flooring.
In addition to the standard sub floor tests it is necessary to provide a certificate that the proper “heating-up and heating-down phases” have been done. A correct heating-up and heating-down of the concrete construction will be necessary at every season of the year.
The heating-up and heating-down phase:
- Start of the heating-up phase earliest 21 days after the cement based concrete has been installed, according to the manufacturer for anhydrite concrete but earliest after 7 days.
- Start the heating-up phase with a flow temperature of 25°C (77°F), which has to remain for three days.
- Increase the flow temperature daily by 5°C (9°F) up to the maximum flow temperature.
- Keep the maximum flow temperature for three days without switching off during the night.
- After three days decrease the flow temperature daily by 10°C (18°F) until you reach a surface temperature of 18°C (64°F).
- During and three days after the installation of the laminate flooring panels remain at 18°C (64°F) surface temperature.
- Three days after the installation you can start to increase the flow temperature slowly.
Attention – the surface temperature may never exceed 28°C (83°F)!
It is always necessary to install a 0,2 mm (8 mil) polyethylene film as a moisture barrier underneath the underlayment
Natural stone slab and ceramic tiles
You may have to consider that possible rest moisture in the sub floor will migrate to the surface of the sub floor and therefore an installation of a moisture barrier is required.
Particle and fiber boards
To improve the subsonic noise a sound proof underlayment is recommended.
Do not install a moisture barrier.
Hardwood flooring boards
Screw down loose boards.
To improve the subsonic noise a sound proof underlayment is recommended.
Do not install a moisture barrier.
A sufficient ventilation system sub floor construction is necessary.
The laminate flooring has to be installed cross wise to the wooden boards.
Elastic flooring surfaces
On this kind of flooring surfaces you don’t need a moisture barrier because the elastic flooring works as a moisture barrier.
To improve the subsonic noise a sound proof underlayment is recommended.
4.  Installation preparation
Acclimatization of the panels
Before starting the installation, laminate flooring has to be brought into the room where it will be installed or in a room with the same climate condition.
The acclimatization will be done as following:
     • in sealed unopened carton
     • for a time period of at least 48 hours
     • flat laying with at least 50 cm (20”) distance to the walls
     • at a room temperature of at least 18°C (64°F)
     • at a floor surface temperature of minimum 15°C (59°F)
     • at a relative humidity between 40% and 70%
Installation direction
Laminate flooring shows its best if you install the laminate flooring panels parallel to the incoming light from windows.
The only required installation direction is if you install laminate flooring over hardwood flooring boards. In this case you have to install the laminate flooring at a 90 degree angle to the existing hardwood flooring boards.
Planning the first row
After determining the best orientation of the flooring and the starting wall, measure the width of the room and divide by the width of the laminate flooring panels to determine the number of rows and the width of the last row. If the last row is determined to be less than 5 cm (2”) wide, it should be adjusted by cutting the first row lengthwise.
Planning of expansion gaps
Laminate flooring as an organic material underlies certain movement behavior (shrinkage/expansion) through changes in the climate conditions. Through adequate expansion gaps to all parts of structures the flooring will not be prevented from his movement behavior.
It is necessary to leave expansion gaps in a width of 8mm to 10mm (1/3” to 2/5”) to all parts of structure i.e. walls, door frames, stairs, around pipes, …
Planning of transition moldings
Through the shrinkage and expansion behavior of laminate flooring you have to install transition moldings at the following conditions:
     • at all door throughways
     • at all passage ways
     • angular rooms
     • single room length and or with of more than 10 m (33 ft)
5.  The installation
After the first carton has been opened and the panels have been unpacked, please detach the pre-perforated installation help from the bottom of the carton. Fold the installation help as shown in Fig. 1. The installation help provides the exact height and angel for the connection of the panels in length direction. Please continue now as described in the following points 1 through 5.
Always check the panels for visible damages before and during installation. Any panels found to be faulty with a visible damage which are then installed are exempt from the warranty.
Begin installing the first row from the left-hand corner of the room with both tongue sides of the panels (Fig.2) towards the wall. Place the 8-10 mm (1/3”-2/5”) spacers between the edges of the flooring panels and the walls to provide room for expansion (Fig. 3). Connect the second panel to the first by placing the interlocking end of the new panel at an angle to the already installed panel (Fig. 4) and then lowering it into a horizontal flat position to lock (Fig. 5).
Mark the last panel in the first row to the required length (place tongue to tongue) and saw do not forget the expansion gap. Start the second row with the left over piece of the first row. The remaining piece has to be at least 200 mm (8) long to ensure maximum strength of the connection. Please start also in the consequent rows each new row with the left over piece of the previous row. Attention: make sure that the short ends are staggered at least 200 mm (8")! If you install panels with a beveled edge or if you want to achieve a special pattern (e.g. regular staggering or checkerboard with tiles), please make sure that you stagger the short ends according to your pattern idea.
After the first row has been installed, start the second row with the left over piece of the first row or with a panel which has been cut to achieve a special flooring pattern. To connect the first piece, place the interlocking tongue edge of the new panel at an angle (Fig. 6) to the groove edge of the already installed panel and then lowering it into a horizontal flat position to lock.
Connect all following panels first on the short edge as described under point 5.1. You should use now the installation help and it should be placed under the front right corner of the last panel installed (Fig. 7).When the short edges are connected, make sure to place the long edge as close together as possible. This will help to connect the long edges (Fig. 7 – detail).
Now remove the installation help from underneath the previously installed panel, push the new panel with the tongue into the groove of the previous row and lower the panel to a flat position to lock (Fig. 8).
Place the installation help underneath the right front corner of the newly installed panel (Fig. 9). Keep in mind, that you will lift the previous installed panel in this row together with the newly installed panel because they are connected on the short edge. Do not lift up the panels higher than the installation help shows.
You can now continue to lay panel after panel, row after row.
In order to mark the last row of panels for cutting, take the new panel and place it exactly on top of the row before last. Using a cut-off piece of a panel (panel width + expansion gap width) it is possible to transfer the wall contour to the panels. Always allow for the minimum expansion gap when scribing along walls.
Installation in commercial areas – WITH GLUE (For products suitable regarding the classification 31, 32 and 33.)
In commercial areas you have to anticipate additional exposure to moisture. Therefore additional sealing with the specially designed Laminate Floor. Strip EX sealing glue is recommended in these areas. Apply the Strip EX sealing glue to the top of the tongue on the short and long edge. The glue should ooze out along the complete long and short edge after the panels have been connected together. It is easy to remove excess sealing glue from the surface either immediately, or after a short drying period.
Attention! Make sure that there is no gap in the flooring joints under the sealing glue.
Fitting around pipes
Measure the position of the pipes and mark it on the panel – consider also the expansion gap (Fig. 1).
Take measurements from the spacers into account. Drill a hole of16 mm (5/8”) bigger than the pipe diameter - expansion provision (Fig. 2).
Saw at a 45° angle to the holes (Fig. 3).
Apply glue to the sawn out piece and fit in with the pull bar (Fig. 4).
Again, do not forget the spacers.
Door Jamb Installation
If you have a wooden door jamb, we recommend undercutting the wooden door jamb according to the thickness of the flooring plus the possible underlayment. Install the flooring now underneath the door jamb – leave the necessary expansion gaps.
In the case you should end your installation underneath a door jamb, we recommend to remove the locking part of the protruding groove of the already installed panel with a utility knife or a pocket plane. The newly laid panel can now be pushed horizontal over the groove of the previous laid panel. Use Strip EX glue on top of the tongue to secure the connection.
If you have a door jamb which can not be shorted, e.g. metal door jamb, we recommend to cover the expansion gaps with moldings or to fill them with elastic acrylic sealants.
Transition and wall moldings
After a correct installation of the Laminate flooring, install the transition molding as well as wall molding. A short installation guide for the uncomplicated installation of the molding are included with the accessories.